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Kalitsounia – Cretan Savory Hand Pies (Traditional Recipe)

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Jenny Skrapaliori-Graves | Last Updated: March 10, 2026

Kalitsounia are one of those recipes that every Cretan family makes a little differently. The greens change with the season. The herbs depend on what’s growing. But the technique — handmade phyllo, fried in good olive oil — that part doesn’t change.

I learned to make these savory hand pies in my aunt Lena’s kitchen in Kakodiki, a small mountain village in the Selino region of Crete. She had just finished trimming fresh spinach from the garden when we started, sitting on the front porch, the Cretan mountains stretching out in front of us. Aunt Lena has been making these for as long as anyone can remember, and watching her roll that phyllo paper-thin without a second thought is something I won’t forget.

This is our family recipe from the Chania region of Crete. Handmade phyllo dough, wild greens, fresh herbs, and nothing else you don’t need.

If you love this traditional Kalitsounia Recipe, you will also enjoy this Spinach Pie, Tiropitakia-Cheese Triangles with Bacon and Gruyère, or Easy Cheese pie with Kataifi Pastry & Roquefort!

Kalitsounia, Cretan hand pies from Chania in a plate with a cloth napkin on a dark green table.

What are kalitsounia?

  • Kalitsounia (καλιτσούνια) are small hand pies that come from the island of Crete. They are one of the most beloved traditional foods of Cretan cuisine — made at home, shared at festivals, and served at Easter tables across the island.
  • They come in two main styles: savory, filled with wild greens and herbs, and sweet, filled with fresh myzithra cheese and honey or cinnamon. Both are delicious, but the savory version is what you’ll find in village kitchens in the Chania region, where the filling reflects whatever greens are available that season.
  • Kalitsounia are most closely associated with western Crete — particularly the prefectures of Chania and Rethymno — though you’ll find versions of them across the whole island. They are traditionally fried in olive oil, which gives them their characteristic golden, slightly crispy shell. Some people bake them, and that works too, but if you want the real thing, frying is the way to go.
  • They are not the same as spanakopita, though the filling can be similar. The difference is in the format — kalitsounia are individual hand pies with their own handmade phyllo crust, smaller and crispier than a baked pie. Think of them as Crete’s answer to the empanada, except older, and arguably better.

A recipe from Selino, Crete

Kakodiki is a small village in the Selino regional unit of the Chania prefecture — a part of Crete that sits in the White Mountains and is known for its olive oil, its wild greens, and its very traditional way of cooking. It’s not a place that has been touched much by tourism, which means the food is still made the way it has always been made.

The greens in this recipe are not exotic or hard to find. In the mountains of Selino they would be whatever was growing, wild chicory, amaranth, dandelion greens, vlita. Here in the US, you work with what you can get: fresh spinach, Swiss chard, collard greens, or a mix of whatever looks good at the farmers market. The spirit of the dish is the same. Use what’s in season, use good olive oil, and don’t skimp on the herbs.

Why you will love kalitsounia

This recipe comes straight from the source, a village kitchen in the Chania region of Crete, made with my aunt Lena, who has been making kalitsounia her whole life. The phyllo is handmade from scratch with just flour, extra virgin olive oil, a splash of red wine vinegar, sea salt, and water. The filling is wild greens and fresh herbs, seasoned with nothing but sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Simple, honest, and completely delicious.

One of the best things about this recipe is how flexible it is. We used fresh spinach, spring onions, a leek, spearmint, and dill from a local Cretan farm — but you can use whatever greens look good at your farmers market or grocery store. Chicory, vlita, amaranth, Swiss chard, collard greens — they all work beautifully, and mixing a few together gives the best flavor. You can also make a heartier version by adding crumbled feta and a little fresh ricotta to the filling. Still vegetarian, even more satisfying.

Kalitsounia are traditionally fried in olive oil, and that is genuinely the best way to cook them. Frying gives the phyllo that golden, slightly blistered crust that you just can’t replicate any other way. If you prefer to bake them, that works too — brush them with olive oil or egg wash and bake at 380°F for about 25 minutes. But if you can fry, fry.

Here is what you need

For the phyllo dough

  • All-purpose flour.
  • Extra virgin olive oil.
  • Red wine vinegar.
  • Sea salt and freshly ground pepper.

For the filling

  • Greens. Such as spinach, amaranth, collard greens, chicory, dandelions, and Swiss chard. You can mix and match or use just one kind.
  • Fresh herbs. Mix fresh spearmint, dill, oregano, sage, basil, basically anything you have available is fine.
  • Spring onions, leeks, scallions. The same principle applies here. Anything similar is ok.
  • Extra virgin olive oil. You will also need it for frying.
  • Sea salt and freshly ground pepper.
An elderly woman sitting outdoors on a chair trimming spinach over two large bowls.
Aunt Lena is trimming the fresh spinach sitting on the front porch at her mountain house in Kakodiki, Crete.

Looking for fresh summer dinner ideas? Check out our 17 Mediterranean Summer Recipes — light, flavorful dishes that don’t require a grill, perfect for easy weeknight meals all season long.

Prepare the greens

Four images of trimming, washing greens and spring onions.
  1. Trim the hard parts and if the stems are tender you can keep them. Discard any damaged or discolored leaves.
  2. Add all the trimmed greens to a large, clean container (or sink) filled with water. Wash them very well. Discard the water and repeat the process a couple more times to remove all the dirt on the leaves and stems. Three washes should be enough. Do not skip the three washes; it is crucial to clean the greens thoroughly.
  3. Slice the spring onions, leek, and other herbs into a large bowl.
  4. Roughly dry the leaves. Gather a small bunch in one hand and with the help of a sharp knife, slice from the top into small pieces.
Four images of massaging greens, adding pepper, cooking over the stove in a pot and a close up of the greens cooked.
  1. Use both your hands to mix the herbs, spring onions and chopped leaves. Massage with medium force for a few minutes to soften them. Show them who’s the boss!
  2. Season the greens with two teaspoons of sea salt and plenty of freshly ground pepper.
  3. Add two to three tablespoons of olive oil in a large pot. Place it over medium-high heat and add the greens. Saute greens for 5 to 10 minutes(or more), stirring often until all moisture and liquids have evaporated.
  4. Remove the pot from heat and let the greens cool. Taste the filling and add sea salt and pepper to your liking.

Make the phyllo dough

Four images of flour in a bowl with olive oil, hands kneading in the bowl and on a floured surface and the dough in a bowl.
  1. Add the flour to a large bowl. Make a well and add the olive oil, red wine vinegar, sea salt, freshly ground pepper, and some water.
  2. Start incorporating the flour and liquids with your fingers in a circular motion. The dough will start coming together. Add a little water at a time as you knead.
  3. When a ball of dough has formed and the walls of the bowl have been completely cleaned, transfer it to a floured surface. Keep kneading the dough with strong movements pulling and turning it for 5 minutes. The dough should be soft, pliable, and fluffy.
  4. Add some flour to the bottom of the bowl and place the dough inside. Cover with a damp towel and let it rest for 30 minutes.

Roll the phyllo

An elderly lady rolling the dough into a large phyllo sheet.
Aunt Lena is showing us how to do the perfect phyllo for kalitsounia at her home in Kakodiki, Crete.
Four images of hands flattening the dough on a table, rolling it with a rolling pin, adding flour on top and rolling it on the rolling pin.
  1. After the dough has rested, divide it into 2 or 3 pieces. Work with one piece at a time, flatten it with your hands on a floured surface. Keep the rest of the pieces covered with the damp towel while you work.
  2. Add a bit of flour on top and start rolling it with a long and thin rolling pin.
  3. Open each piece onto a thin sheet, flouring whenever necessary.
  4. Gently roll it on the rolling pin and push outwards with your fingers and palms to open each piece onto a thin sheet around one millimeter thick. Check this video for how to roll the perfect phyllo sheet.

Fill the hand pies

Four images of a hand holding a small plate over the phyllo and a knife cutting it at the edge, a hand filling the pie with greens, two hands fording the hand pie and a fork pressing at the edge of a hand pie.
  1. Place a small plate on the phyllo sheet, use it as a guide and gently cut with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the plate.
  2. Put a full tablespoon of the greens mixture on half of the round phyllo piece about a centimeter from the edge.
  3. Wet your fingers with a bit of water and run them over that half edge of the phyllo. Bring the other side over the filling and seal the hand pie gently with your fingers.
  4. Take a fork and press around the edge to firmly seal the kalitsouni and make a pattern.
Close up of hand pies on a floured baking sheet.

Pro Tip

Place the kalitsounia on a floured surface as you finish each one. Don’t overlap or stack them. They will stick together, and it will be difficult to separate them. Make layers. Add a piece of parchment on top, sprinkle a bit of flour, and place more on the paper if you need to.

Time to cook

Frying the kalitsounia brings out the best flavor (versus baking). It is how they are traditionally made and my preferred way to cook them.

However, if frying is not your cup of tea, line a baking sheet with parchment paper, brush the kalitsounia with olive oil all over and bake them on a 380°F oven for about 25 minutes or until they are golden and the edges are crispy (but not burned).

Three kalitsounia frying in a skillet.
Three kalitsounia frying in a skillet.
  1. Add some olive oil to a frying pan. Place over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, fry the kalitsounia for about two to three minutes per side.
  2. Keep in mind that as you fry, the oil will get hotter and each hand pie will appear to need less time to cook. Don’t be fooled by this. Lower the heat to medium and cook for a little longer. For the best results, always do a taste test to ensure the hand pies are cooked to your liking.

Place cooked kalitsounia on paper towels (or a wire rack) to absorb the extra olive oil.

Kalitsounia, Cretan hand pies from Chania in a plate and two hand pies on a cloth napkin all on a dark green table.

Helpful tips

  • The kalitsounia can be enjoyed immediately or at room temperature. I even like them cold, directly from the fridge. I have been known to sneak into the kitchen and snack on cold kalitsounia. Can’t resist them at any temperature!
  • Add one cup of crumbled feta mixed with 1/4 cup fresh ricotta cheese in the greens filling for a different version of kalitsounia.

FAQs

Both use a greens and herb filling, but they are quite different in form. Spanakopita is typically made as a large baked pie with store-bought phyllo sheets layered with butter or olive oil. Kalitsounia are individual hand pies with their own handmade phyllo dough, fried rather than baked, and much smaller. The texture is crispier and the experience is more portable — you eat them out of hand, not sliced from a pan.

Yes, and this is a very traditional Cretan variation. In Crete, the classic cheese for kalitsounia is myzithra, a fresh, soft whey cheese with a mild, slightly tangy flavor. If you can find it at a Greek deli or specialty store, use about one cup crumbled into the greens filling before assembling.

If myzithra is not available, a mix of crumbled feta and fresh ricotta is the best substitute. The feta brings the saltiness and the ricotta mimics the soft, creamy texture of myzithra. Use about one cup of feta mixed with ¼ cup of ricotta. Either way, taste the filling before adding any extra salt, the cheese will likely take care of it.

Absolutely, savory cheese-only kalitsounia are just as traditional in Crete as the greens version. The filling is simply fresh myzithra, sometimes mixed with a little egg to bind it, and seasoned with salt and pepper. The result is creamy, mild, and delicious. If you can’t find myzithra, use crumbled feta mixed with fresh ricotta as a substitute , about ¾ cup feta to ¼ cup ricotta works well. Some cooks add a little fresh mint to the cheese filling too, which is a lovely touch.

Yes, and they freeze beautifully. Assemble the kalitsounia fully — fill, fold, and seal — then place them on a floured baking sheet and freeze until solid before transferring to a zip-lock bag. Fry them directly from frozen over medium heat, adding a couple of extra minutes per side. Do not thaw first or the phyllo will get soggy.

Yes! Sweet kalitsounia are just as traditional in Crete, especially around Easter. They are typically filled with fresh myzithra cheese (a soft, unsalted Cretan whey cheese) sweetened with honey and cinnamon, then either fried or baked. If you can find myzithra at a Greek deli, it’s worth making the sweet version too. They are completely different from the savory ones but equally wonderful.

Kalitsounia, Cretan hand pies from Chania in a plate with a cloth napkin on a dark green table.

A big thank you to my aunt Eleni Vernadaki and cousin Piyi Papadaki for their help in creating these delicious traditional kalitsounia. Our post was photographed at their beautiful home in Kakodiki, Crete.

Four images of a house in the mountains of Crete. A table and a wooden chair in a yard, a staircase with a small cat sitting on a step, a veranda with the view of the mountains and an olive tree grove next to the house.

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Kalitsounia-Cretan Savory Hand Pies

by Jenny Skrapaliori Graves
Kalitsounia are hand pies from Crete and can be sweet or savory. This is our family recipe with handmade phyllo with a local greens and herbs filling.
5 from 11 votes
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Prep Time 1 hour 30 minutes
Cook Time 30 minutes
Dough resting time 30 minutes
Course Appetizer-snack
Cuisine Cretan, Greek
Servings 30 pieces
Calories 88 kcal

Equipment

  • Rolling Pin
  • 2 large bowls

Ingredients
  

For the phyllo dough

  • 3 cups all-purpose flour plus more for dusting
  • ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 1½ cups water approximatelly
  • 1½ teaspoons sea salt

for the filling

  • 4 lbs greens spinach, amaranth, collard greens, chicory, dandelions
  • 1 cup fresh spearmint leaves
  • ½ cup fresh dill
  • 3-4 spring onions
  • 1 leek
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • sea salt
  • freshly ground pepper

You also need

  • extra virgin olive oil for frying

Instructions
 

Trim and wash the greens

  • Trim any hard parts from the greens. If the stems are tender, you can keep them.
    Discard any leaves that are damaged or discolored. 
  • Add all the trimmed greens to a large, clean container (or sink) filled with water. Wash them very well, discard the water, and repeat the process a couple more times to remove all the dirt on the leaves and stems. 
    Three washes should be enough. Do not skip the three washes; it is crucial to clean the greens thoroughly.
  • Slice the spring onions, leeks, and any other herbs and place them into a large bowl. Roughly dry the leaves. Gather a small bunch in one hand, and with the help of a sharp knife, slice from the top into small pieces.

Cook the greens

  • Use both your hands to mix the herbs, spring onions and chopped leaves. Massage with medium force for a few minutes to soften them.
    Season the greens with two teaspoons of sea salt and plenty of freshly ground pepper. 
    Add two to three tablespoons of olive oil in a large pot. Place it over medium-high heat and add the greens.
    Saute for 5 to 10 minutes(or more), stirring often until all moisture and liquids have evaporated. 
    Remove the pot from heat and let the greens cool.

Make the dough

  • Add the flour to a large bowl. Make a well and add the olive oil, red wine vinegar, sea salt, freshly ground pepper, and some water.
  • Start incorporating the flour and liquids with your fingers in a circular motion. The dough will start coming together. Add a little water at a time as you knead. 
    When a dough ball has formed and the bowl is cleaned of sticky bits of dough, transfer it to a floured surface and keep kneading the dough with strong movements, pulling and turning it for 5 minutes. The dough should be soft, pliable, and fluffy. 
    Add some flour to the bottom of the bowl and place the dough inside. Cover with a damp towel and let it rest for 30 minutes.

Roll out the phyllo

  • After the dough has rested, divide it into 2 or 3 pieces.
    Work with one piece at a time, flatten it with your hands on a floured surface. Keep the other pieces covered with the towel.
    Add a bit of flour on top and start rolling it with a long and thin rolling pin. Open each piece onto a thin sheet, flouring whenever necessary. 
    Gently roll it on the rolling pin and push outwards with your fingers and palms to open each piece onto a thin sheet, around one millimeter thick.
    See notes below for a very informative video on how to roll the perfect phyllo sheet.

Make the kalitsounia

  • Using a small plate as a guide, place it on the phyllo sheet and gently cut it with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the plate. 
    Place a full tablespoon of the greens mixture on half the small piece of phyllo about a centimeter from the edge.
    Wet your fingers with some water and run them over that half edge of the phyllo.
    Bring the other side over the filling and seal the hand pie gently with your fingers. 
    Take a fork and press around the edge to firmly seal the kalitsouni. 
    TIP: Place the kalitsounia on a floured surface as you finish each one. Don't overlap or stack them. They will stick together, and it will be difficult to separate them. Make layers. Add a piece of parchment on top, sprinkle a bit of flour, and place more on the paper if you need to.

Fry the kalitsounia

  • Add ¼ of a cup of olive oil to a frying pan. Place over medium-high heat.
    When the oil is hot, fry two three kalitsounia at a time for about two to three minutes per side. Keep in mind that as you fry, the oil will get hotter and each hand pie will appear to need less time to cook. Lower the heat to medium and cook for a little longer.
    For the best results, always do a taste test to ensure the hand pies are cooked to your liking.
    Place fried kalitsounia on paper towels (or a wire rack) to absorb the extra olive oil.

Notes

  • Check this very informative video for how to roll the perfect phyllo for pies and hand pies.
  • Kalitsounia are traditionally fried in olive oil. Frying brings out the best flavor and texture. Alternatively, they can be baked in a 380°F / 180°C oven for 25 minutes. Brush each one with a bit of olive oil or an egg wash before baking.
  • You can use sunflower oil for frying.
  • The kalitsounia can be enjoyed immediately or at room temperature. 
  • Add one cup of crumbled feta mixed with 1/4 cup fresh ricotta cheese in the greens filling for a different version of kalitsounia.
 
Nutritional Info – Please remember that the nutritional information provided is only estimated and can vary based on the products used.

Nutrition

Calories: 88kcalCarbohydrates: 12gProtein: 2gFat: 4gSaturated Fat: 0.5gPolyunsaturated Fat: 0.4gMonounsaturated Fat: 2gSodium: 135mgPotassium: 141mgFiber: 1gSugar: 0.2gVitamin A: 873IUVitamin C: 16mgCalcium: 18mgIron: 1mg
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Kalitsounia – Cretan Savory Hand Pies (Traditional Recipe)

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